I have always loved the smell of leather, in all its variations.
I can remember as a little girl pressing my father’s black leather car coat to my nose and inhaling the smooth, cool surface until I felt faint from the sharpness of the chemicals used in the tanning process. I thought it smelled similar to the odor of the dregs of cherry tobacco that came out of my Uncle Harry’s pipe when he turned it upside down to empty into a little ceramic decanter. I can recall thinking that these were both ‘man’ items, and that this is what a man smells like!
Sometimes the scent of leather is overwhelmingly sweet, almost gourmand in effect, like a rich, cloying fruitcake that has been left in the pantry too long. And often, to me, it smells like black licorice candy – dense and chewy, redolent with just the faintest wisp of violet.
And sometimes leather is reminiscent of the delicious, comforting smell of an old vintage book, musty and woody, with pungent, worn leather bindings frantically trying to keep the fragile, brittle pages from escaping.
When the weather turns cold, I begin to crave my leather-infused fragrances. Here’s a selection of favorites from my perfume armoire:
Demeter Riding Crop – Conjures up a spot-on portrayal of a new leather jacket!
Chanel Cuir de Russie – Perfumer Ernest Beaux’ 1927 woody Oriental masterpiece is still beloved by perfume enthusiasts and combines orange blossom, birchwood, jasmine, ylang ylang, bergamot and mandarin.
CB I Hate Perfume In the Library – Created in 2005, perfumer Christopher Brosius’ ode to his favorite room is a warm blend of English novel and Russian and Moroccan leather bindings.
Parfums d’Empire Cuir Ottoman – This intoxicating iris & leather Oriental is meant to be a languid reminder of an afternoon in a Turkish Bath. Perhaps for those who love to read in the tub? Notes are benzoin, resin, incense tears, & jasmine.
Guerlain Cuir Beluga – Perfumer Olivier Polge’s soft, velvety interpretation, with notes of mandarin, immortelle flower, leather, amber, heliotrope, and vanilla.
Carner Barcelona Cuirs – Sara Carner’s vision for Cuirs was nostalgia for a bygone era, with a melding of saffron, woods, resinous dry amber, tobacco smoke, and raw leather.
Dana English Leather – Created in 1949, this fresh chypre citrus with moss, woods, and leather notes stayed popular for decades, and had an unforgettable tag line… “My men wear English Leather, or they wear nothing at all…”
Annick Goutal Le Sac de Ma Mere – Camille Goutal ‘s homage to the joyful memory of the smell of her mother Annick’s handbag has been replicated in a candle with notes of tanned Russian leather, iris, violet, and oakmoss blended with an accord of powder, blush and lipstick .
Tom Ford Private Blend Tuscan Leather – This elegant chypre combines saffron, raspberry, thyme, olibanum, night blooming jasmine, leather, amber wood, and black suede. Recommended to be worn unshaven.
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta – A perfect depiction of one of the famous leather house’s trademark woven handbags, this modern floral chypre created by perfumer Michel Almairac in 2011 weaves plum, pink pepper, jasmine, oak moss, patchouli, bergamot, into a blend of “invisible, private luxury.”
Caron Tabac Blond – Perfumer Ernest Daltroff’s 1919 masterpiece, which still smells modern today, was a tribute to the free-spirited, emerging woman who spoke her own mind, behaved as she pleased, and dared to wear trousers and smoke cigarettes. A smoky, complex tapestry of cedar, carnation, leather, tobacco leaves, vanilla, patchouli, ambergris, iris, lime blossom, and vetiver.
Ayala Moriel Frangipanni Gloves – Legend has it that the inspiration for perfumer Ayala Sender’s soft and powdery floral/leather/tobacco creation is the Marquesa Frangipani, who invented a way to perfume her suede gloves in the Victorian era. Notes are frangipani flower, oleander, guaiacwood, mimosa, neroli, orris root, ambrette and white pepper.
Hermes Kelly Caleche – House perfumer Jean Claude Ellena visited Hermes’ leather skin warehouse in 2007 and was inspired to create this floral leather fragrance as a memory of the experience. With the iconic Caleche perfume as a platform, coupled with the vision Hermes’ legendary Kelly bag, this sophisticated scent comprises jasmine, mimosa, tuberose, iris, benzoin and leather.