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Smells Like Winter/Hiver to Me!

It was 13 degrees in New York City a few weeks ago, and we had a dusting of snow yesterday, so I finally feel like winter has arrived!  Now I want to immerse myself in total winterness, and that starts with building a fragrance wardrobe that will create a mood of cold, metallic, powdery, frozen, crystalline iciness for me to waft around in like the scent-happy snow bunny that I am.

I was inspired to research fragrances with the word winter (hiver in French) in the title… and was amazed at how many there are! I’ve cleared a shelf in my perfume armoire, and have commenced with adding the following frosty scents to evoke some seasonal sillage….

CB I Hate Perfume Winter 1972 – Perfumer Christopher Brosius’ portrait of a memory in time boasts notes of a field of untouched new fallen snow, hand-knit woolen mittens coated with frost, a hint of frozen forest and sleeping earth.

DSH Perfumes Epices d’Hiver –  Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’ comforting and cozy interpretation of Winter spices is like a warm cup of tea in your hands on a frigid day. Woods, earthy patchouli, and a botanical ambergris mesh beautifully with davana, stargazer lily, jasmine, nutmeg and pink pepper.

Frederic Malle L’Eau d’Hiver –  The scent I reach for when I want to feel like I’m snuggled in a pure, white snowdrift looking up at a blustery blue-grey winter sky. Jean-Claude Ellena’s creation is coldly comforting marriage of angelica, jasmine, heliotrope, iris, honey, hawthorn, carnation, and white musk.

Thierry Mugler Angel Winter Star Extrait de Parfum – Yet another incarnation of the fantastic Angel and the iconic star-shaped flacon. Notes are vanilla, sandalwood, patchouli, citrus, melon, peach and plum.

Yves Rocher Folie de Saisons Fantaisies d’Hiver – Created as part of a 1997 collection, this hard-to-find fragrance has been described as a velvet icy flower, with notes of violet, wood, vanilla, and water accords.

For Strange Women Winter Kitty –  Somebody get Katy Perry on the phone… quick! The fragrance house, For Strange Women, describes this as a botanical perfume inspired by felines, fireplaces, and snowflakes – an artisan rendition of the sweet, slightly musky smell of a kitty who went out for a Winter walk  and came back with chimney smoke and brisk air lingering in her fur. Notes are vetiver, wood, frankincense, Moroccan rose, mint, Douglas fir, and vanilla bourbon.

Coty Vanilla Fields Winter Perfume – Created in 1993, this flanker to the original is a blend of vanilla and white jasmine.

Kenzo Fleurs d’Hiver – Created in 2008 as an homage to precious Winter flowers, Fleurs d’Hiver is a powdery, creamy mélange of mandarin, violet leaf, mimosa, camellia, Hellebore rose, patchouli, and vanilla absolute.

Yosh Winter Rose – Another beautiful interpretation from the perfumer’s perfumer… the divine Ms. Han! Winter Rose is an aromatic tapestry inspired by Yosh’s travels through turkey, evoking dreamy landscapes of lush textures and colors, spice markets, a saffron-colored cashmere wrap, desert caves, ancient ruins, and heady roses from Isparta.

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice – Created in 2000, this is an elegant mix of pine, rose, gingerbread, and incense that often is described as smelling like Christmas!

CLEAN Winter –  The creators of the CLEAN line aimed to capture the scent of snowflakes falling on the tip of your nose and a steaming cup of hot cocoa to warm your sun-kissed rosy cheeks with notes of frosted hyacinth, bergamot, star anise, blonde woods, and white musk.

Ayala Moriel Bois d’Hiver – Perfumer Ayala Sender warm composition geared to men (but that doesn’t deter me from wearing it!) utilizes incense, woods, fir, pine, pimento, tolu balm, juniper berries, myrrh, orange blossom, sage, Moroccan rose, bitter orange, jasmine, cedar wood, grandiflorum, and rosemary.

Ayala Moriel Fete d’Hiver – Ayala celebrates the festival that is winter with the soft powdery feeling of snow and warming by a fireplace on a furry rug with notes of amber, pimento, otto rose, sandalwood, Moroccan rose, bitter orange, rosewood, incense, gardenia, and nutmeg.

Givenchy Ange Ou Demon Le Secret Poesie d’un Parfum d’Hiver –  Created in 2011 as part of Givenchy’s Poetry of a Winter Perfume series, this floral gourmand combines notes of the holiday season such as candied orange, cinnamon, gingerbread, and praline with green tea, sambac jasmine, honey, ginger, musk, and guaiac wood.

Givenchy Very Irresistible Poesie d’un Parfum d’Hiver –  This spicy floral seasonal flanker to the original Very Irresistible opens with an orange thread embraced with star anise, cinnamon, ginger, rose, licorice, vanilla, and tonka bean.

Givenchy Very Irresistible Cedre d’Hiver – This 2010 woody blend recalls a layer of soft white snow clinging to cedar branches amid a stark, icy landscape with a fusion of Atlas cedar, Virginia cedar, sandalwood, amber, cassis, star anise, magnolia leaf, rose, and frankincense.

Eau d’Italie Sienne l’Hiver – Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour takes us on another of his sensory journeys, this time to the medieval streets of Winter in Siena.  Opening with fresh, torn autumn leaves, Sienne l’Hiver unfolds with accords of black olive, French straw, white truffle, iris root, violet leaf, geranium, woods, coal-roasted chestnuts and white musk.

M. Micallef Les 4 Saisons – Perfumer Martine Micallef’s warm, powdery blend  has vivid top-notes of lemon, neroli, citron, petitgrain, and orange evolving into a sensual pairing of ylang ylang, jasmine, iris, cinnamon, almond, vanilla, cedar, sandalwood, cumin, violet, elemi, oak, white musk, orange blossom, and benzoin.

Van Cleef & Arpels Les Saisons Hiver – Launched in 2004, perfumer Alberto Morillas’ spicy green floral unisex scent is inspired by the serenity of winter nights and the essence of unity during the holidays. Notes are lime, white pepper, cardamom, white musk, amber and green lemon.

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Leather Weather

I have always loved the smell of leather, in all its variations.

I can remember as a little girl pressing my father’s black leather car coat to my nose and inhaling the smooth, cool surface until I felt faint from the sharpness of the chemicals used in the tanning process. I thought it smelled similar to the odor of the dregs of cherry tobacco that came out of my Uncle Harry’s pipe when he turned it upside down to empty into a little ceramic decanter. I can recall thinking that these were both ‘man’ items, and that this is what a man smells like!

Sometimes the scent of leather is overwhelmingly sweet, almost gourmand in effect, like a rich, cloying fruitcake that has been left in the pantry too long. And often, to me, it smells like black licorice candy – dense and chewy, redolent with just the faintest wisp of violet.

And sometimes leather is reminiscent of the delicious, comforting smell of an old vintage book, musty and woody, with pungent, worn leather bindings frantically trying to keep the fragile, brittle pages from escaping.

When the weather turns cold, I begin to crave my leather-infused fragrances. Here’s a selection of favorites from my perfume armoire:

Demeter Riding Crop Conjures up a spot-on portrayal of a new leather jacket!

Chanel Cuir de Russie – Perfumer Ernest Beaux’ 1927 woody Oriental masterpiece is still beloved by perfume enthusiasts and combines orange blossom, birchwood, jasmine, ylang ylang, bergamot and mandarin.

CB I Hate Perfume In the Library – Created in 2005, perfumer Christopher Brosius’ ode to his favorite room is a warm blend of English novel and Russian and Moroccan leather bindings.

Parfums d’Empire Cuir Ottoman – This intoxicating iris & leather Oriental is meant to be a languid reminder of an afternoon in a Turkish Bath. Perhaps for those who love to read in the tub? Notes are benzoin, resin, incense tears, & jasmine.

Guerlain Cuir Beluga – Perfumer Olivier Polge’s soft, velvety interpretation, with notes of mandarin, immortelle flower, leather, amber, heliotrope, and vanilla.

Carner Barcelona Cuirs – Sara Carner’s vision for Cuirs was nostalgia for a bygone era, with a melding of saffron, woods, resinous dry amber, tobacco smoke, and raw leather.

Dana English Leather –  Created in 1949, this fresh chypre citrus with moss, woods, and leather notes stayed popular for decades, and had an unforgettable tag line… “My men wear English Leather, or they wear nothing at all…”

Annick Goutal Le Sac de Ma Mere – Camille Goutal ‘s homage to the joyful memory of the smell of her mother Annick’s handbag has been replicated in a candle with notes of tanned Russian leather, iris, violet, and oakmoss blended with an accord of powder, blush and lipstick .

Tom Ford Private Blend Tuscan Leather – This elegant chypre combines saffron, raspberry, thyme, olibanum, night blooming jasmine, leather, amber wood, and black suede. Recommended to be worn unshaven.

Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta – A perfect depiction of one of the famous leather house’s trademark woven handbags, this modern floral chypre created by perfumer Michel Almairac  in 2011 weaves plum, pink pepper, jasmine, oak moss, patchouli, bergamot, into a blend of  “invisible, private luxury.”

Caron Tabac Blond – Perfumer Ernest Daltroff’s 1919 masterpiece, which still smells modern today, was a tribute to the free-spirited, emerging woman who spoke her own mind, behaved as she pleased, and dared to wear trousers and smoke cigarettes. A smoky, complex tapestry of cedar, carnation, leather, tobacco leaves, vanilla, patchouli, ambergris, iris, lime blossom, and vetiver.

Ayala Moriel Frangipanni Gloves – Legend has it that the inspiration for perfumer Ayala Sender’s soft and powdery floral/leather/tobacco creation is the Marquesa Frangipani, who invented a way to perfume her suede gloves in the Victorian era. Notes are frangipani flower, oleander, guaiacwood, mimosa, neroli, orris root, ambrette and white pepper.

Hermes Kelly Caleche – House perfumer Jean Claude Ellena visited Hermes’ leather skin warehouse in 2007 and was inspired to create this floral leather fragrance as a memory of the experience. With the iconic Caleche perfume as a platform, coupled with the vision Hermes’ legendary Kelly bag, this sophisticated scent comprises jasmine, mimosa, tuberose, iris, benzoin and leather.

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Sniffapalooza Reads: The Book of Lost Fragrances

We’re very excited to share a special offer from our good friend, the wonderful fragrance novelist – author M.J. Rose!  Her spellbinding new masterpiece, The Book of Lost Fragrances, debuts in March and has already received critical acclaim. It has been called a “deliciously sensual novel of paranormal suspense…” by Publishers Weekly.

Joya Studio’s perfumer Frederick Bouchardy read an advanced copy of The Book of Lost Fragrances, and was so enthralled that he was inspired to interpret the magical scent in the book. He created Âmes Sœurs, scent of soul mates, with hints of Frankincense, Myrrh, Orange Blossom and Jasmine. Its smoky uncommon finish suggests the past and the future, and the hope of lost souls reunited.

If you pre-order The Book of Lost Fragrances, and follow the instructions below, you’ll be sent a sample of the extraordinary Âmes Sœurs perfume. This is a mesmerizing read, a provocative fragrance, a unique collaboration and something very special for fragrance enthusiasts and book lovers alike!

To partake of this rare, exclusive opportunity:

1. Just click on the preferred website and pre-order The Book of Lost Fragrances    from the links below.

2. Email the receipt or a scan of it to LostFragrances@gmail.com along with your name and mailing address for fragrance delivery.

3. Your sample of Âmes Sœurs will be shipped to you on or before March 13th.  The book will arrive separately, from the store of your choice, at the same time so you can enjoy both together.

Amazon
Barnes & Noble
Your Favorite Independent Book Seller
Books a Million

*Offer ends March 1st, is limited numbers of supplies available and only to readers in the US and Canada.

Leave a comment below and enter to win an Advanced Reader’s Copy of The Book of Lost Fragrances!